Improvement in machines for sewing boots and shoes



ZSheets -Sheet 1. C. GOODYEAR, Jr.,,& B. H. HADLEY.

MACHINE FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES. 1 Io.1.'i-0,547. Patented Nov.-30,1875.

M'i-ness es M M N. PETERS. PHOTQLITHOGRAPMER. WASHINGTON, n C.

V v ZSheetsSheetZ. O. GOODYEAR, In, & 3.11. HADLEY. MACHINE FOR SEWINGBOOTS AND SHOES.

Na, 170,541 Patented Nov. 30,1875.

WMSsO-S,

N. PEIERS, PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON D C,

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEIOE,

CHARLES GOODYEAR, JR, OF NEw ROCHELLE, AND BENJAMIN HADLEY, OF BROOKLYN,NEW YORK, ASSIGNORS TO TH GOODYEAR BOOT AND SHOE SEWING-MACHINE COMPANY.a

IMPROVEMENT IN MACHINES FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 170.547, dated November30, 1875; application filed July 30, 1873.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, CHARLES GOODYEAR, Jr., of New Rochelle, Westchestercounty. New York, and BENJAMIN H; HADLEY, of Brooklyn, Kings county, NewYork, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines forSewing Boots and Shoes, of

which the following is a specification:

This invention consists of certain improvements on boot and shoe sewingmachinery, s ch as secured by several Letters Patent heretofore grantedto Daniel Mills, and also to Charles Goodyear, Jr.

The particular machine to which we have here represented our inventionas applied will be found described in Letters Patent granted to CharlesGoodyear, Jr., July 11,1871,NO. 116,947.

The main object we have in view is to bring the chain-stitch on theoutside of the seam, or next to the upper or welt, instead of laying itin the inside channel, as is the case in the above-mentioned patentedmachine. This necessitates changes in the arrangement of the needle,needle-brace, barb-shield,- feeding-dog, &c., with relation to eachother. The principal changes, however, may be specified as follows:first, reversing the needle, so that it shall point outward away fromthe'head of the machine, instead-of inward toward the same; second,corresponding alterations in the positions of the needle guard or braceand barb shield, andin the manner of mountingv the same third, mountingthe looper on a bracket in front of the machine, as hereinafterdescribed; fourth, the addition of a device, resembling somewhat what isknown as a cast-01f, which, however, in our present machine, has nothingto do with the controlling the thread or preventing the catching of theloop upon the barb of the needle, but is used solely to prevent the barbof the needle from catching the lining of the shoe.

The manner in which our invention is or may be carried intoefl'ect willbe readily understood by reference to the accompanying drawing, in whichFigure l is a side elevation of the head of a vice; and Fig. 5 is anelevation of the same from the side Fig. 3.

,The barbed needle (it occupies a position exactly the reverse of thatwhich it has formerly opposite ,to that shown in occupied in machines ofthe kind above referred to, being arranged so as to point outwardly, andso as to pass first through the upper, (in sewing turned work,) and thenthrough the sole from the outside groove or channel to the insidechannel, its motion thus being the opposite of that which it formerlyhas had, consequently bringing the chain stitch on the outside of theseam, and laying it in the outside groove on the upper, instead of inthe inside channel. The needle-stock a is a toothed segment gearing witha toothed segment-lever, operated by a cam, as usual, and the operationand construction of these parts consequently require no detaileddescription here. We also make use of the backgage or welt-guide,(according as it is desired, to sew welts or turned 'work,)'-asdescribed in the before-mentioned Letters Patent. The auxiliary yieldingedge-gage j is also arranged and operated, substantially as shown anddescribed in the above-named patent and in other patents to CharlesGoodyear, Jr., and needs no further description. The same is true of thecombined channelgage and feed-dog k, which has an out-andin andbacleand-forth movement, as described in the above-recited LettersPatent. The position of the needle guard andshield b is changed toaccommodate it to the'altered position of the needle, being mounted on aplate, 12, on that side of the needle-segment opposite to thework-protector hereinafter described; but, in other respects, as regardsits function, and operation, and combination with the needle, it isunchanged, and works in the manner described in said Letters Patent.

In order to adapt the looper c to the changed conditions of the machine,mount it on a bracket, d, on the front of the machine, the looperlever 0being pivoted upon a horizontal axis, 0 to the bracket, which is mountedto turn on a horizontal axis at right angles with pivot c in a sleeve, 0onthe machine, thus allowing the looper all necessary movement. Aspring-stud, 6, bearing against the lower arm of the lever tends to holdthe looper out wardly while the necessary motions of the looper, withrespect to the needle, are derived from two roller-studs on its upperendthe pne, f, working against the face of a cam,j,

the other, g, working in a cam-groove, g. The thread passes from thebobbin and takeup in the usual way, and is carried over a groovedpulley, h, on the front of the machine down to the looper.

Inasmuch as in sewing turned work in this machine, the upper is the lastportion of the work from which the needle withdraws in its retreat,there is danger that the needle-barb,

when it withdraws, will catch or become entangled with the threads ofthe shoe-lining. To prevent any such occurrence, I provide what may betermed a work-protector, t, a thin suitably-shaped piece of steel orother suitable metal, which lies close to the needle on the barbed sidethereof, and moves up with the needle, or while the same is in the work,so as to press or bear on the work closely around the orifice madetherein by the needle-segment is mounted. This hub is provided with anindependent toothed segment, '11,, gearing with a toothed segment, 11 onthe end of a lever, p, pivoted to the machine at p, and provided at itsupper end with a rollerstud working in a cam-groove, 19 so shaped as toimpart the requisite motions at the proper times to the work-protector.A spring, 17, attached 'at one end to the lower end of lever 19, servesto keep the roller-stud in continuous contact with the inner surface ofthe cam-groove, which groove at that part, 11 which the roller-studoccupies when the protector is pressed against the work, is somewhatwider than the diameter of the rollerstud, to permit the lever to somove as to allow the protector to adapt itself to different thicknessesof work, it being held, when against the work, with a yielding pressuredue to the spring 19 and the formation of the ,part 19 of thecam-groove:

It will, of course, be understood that the mechanism above described isadapted equally well to sewing welts as to sewing turned work.

We have not deemed it necessary here to describe the machine, save inthose particulars in which it difi'ers from the patented machine abovereferred to. In other respects its construction and mode of operationare substantially the same as described in said Letters Patent. l

Having described our invention, what we claim, and desire to securebyLetters Patent, 1S-

1. A sewing mechanism for boots and shoes,

in which the channel-gage and back-gage are y combined with and arrangedrelatively to a circularly-curved needle, substantiallyas set. forth, sothat the operation of sewing. therea with placesthe loop or chain stitchon the outside of the seam, instead of in the channel,

in the sole.

2. In combination with the circularly-curved.

needle, the channel-gage, and the back-gage, or welt-guide, arrangedtogether for operation as set forth, we claim therlooper arranged andmounted relatively to the needle and guiding a devices, as herein shownand set forth.

3. The combination, with the curvedoutwardly-pointed needle,operatingsubstantially as described, of a vibratory work-protector, moving to andfrom the: work at properdnter-y vals, as set forth, thesame beingplacedclose to the needle on the barbedside thereof, and arranged topress upon the .work atthetime the needle is retreating, and until theneedle barb is fully withdrawn therefrom, substan-, tially as and forthe purposes shown and set forth.

4. The work-protector carried by an hide-d pendent toothed segmentmounted on the axis.

or. shaft of the needle-segment, in combination with a lever-segment,cam, and spring, for

operatingthe same, substantially in the manner set forth.

In testimony whereof we have hereunto set our hands in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses. s

. CHAS. GOODYEAR, JR.

BENJAMIN H. HADLEY.

Witnesses:

FREDRIGK CRAGG, O. I). ADAMS.

s it

